London has changed dramatically in recent years, but it’s still London. It’s a world of itself, with its unique melange of millennia-old British tradition with post-modern everyday architecture, museums, sights, and shopping. Its countless attractions range from the change of the guards and the torture room at the Tower of London to Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum to arguably the best range of ethnic cuisines anywhere.
Below are my thoughts on essential London aspects, tainted, of course, by my preferences. I’m excluding the usual attractions.
1. The change of the guard – you can’t beat the pageantry, precision, excitement and crowds of this ancient ceremonial tradition.
2. The British Museum – centuries of plunder brought to a single location incredible historical and artistic treasures such as the Rosetta Stone, huge Assyrian temple statues, Hammurabi’s Code, and everything Egyptian history.
A second favorite is the unsung Dali Museum by The Eye. I adore Dali…
3. Shepherds Market – a fantastic assortment of ethnic restaurants and pubs, some ever changing and others old faithfuls. Among them are Al Hamrs (the best Lebanese food in London for my palate) and the Polish Mexican corner restaurant that got Liat hooked on pirogis.
4. St. James Park – central London has several gorgeous, huge parks. This is my favorite. You see many baby prams (British for baby carriage), flowers, and huge trees. Strolling through it will lower your blood pressure.
5. The theater – any play is great (and reasonably priced). My two favorite venues are – the Old Vic (their repertoire is an excellent selection of classics and avant-garde plays) and The Globe, which puts on Shakespeare’s classics in a historical setting.
6. High Tea – my friend Keith Hurdman calls “high tea” the most underrated meal in British cuisine. I love it. There’s something for everyone. Dick eats primarily the sandwiches and maybe a scone. I only eat scones, either whipped cream (not clotted) or honey (not jam). I’m clearly a sinner. My favorite – is Victoria Sponge Cake without a doubt. The best I found, unfortunately, is in Cornwall at the Cavendish cafe. But there are plenty of good alternatives in London. Tip: avoid the Ritz and (sadly) the Goring (it used to be sublime; too popular now so quality has declined). Every upscale hotel offers high tea (sandwiches, scones, cakes and pastries and tea). It’s expensive. Cream tea (only scones or crumpets with jam and clotted cream) is much more reasonable. My favorite – is Gail’s on Wardour Street. They have many outlets. Their fruit scones (I.e. with raisins) are fabulous. It’s reasonably priced, too.
7. The Silver Vaults. This is a privately owned area where many silver merchants show their wares. And those are gorgeous!
8. Any antique market. My favorite – Davies Street off Oxford. You never know what you’ll see or buy. I’m not a fan of Portobello’s..,
9. Ballet – it’s nearly impossible to find superb classical ballet companies anymore. My father took me to see the Royal Ballet when I was nine years old. I’ve been hooked ever since. They recreate magic. Even Dick got hooked. New York has a tremendous company as well. But, when in London…
10. FOOD – so much to recommend;
Borough Market ( try the paella or the venison burger)
Paxton and Whitfield cheese shop on Jermyn Street (try Motcombe Farm cheddar)
Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly – just for the experience
Restaurants:
Amaya for modern Indian (incredible)
Veeraswi or India Oven for traditional Indian
Anything Ottolenghi (especially his outlet by Amaya)
Scott’s Mayfair for fish and “see and be seen“ scene
Claire Smith (impossible to get into but worth the fight)
Zafferano for Italian
Try a carvery (such as Simpson’s on the Strand) for a very British experience (don’t go if you’re a vegetarian)
Rules. It’s reputably the oldest restaurant in London. Fantastic food, especially game which they raise on their grounds at the Highlands.
Porter’s. Quintessential British from the Duke of Bedford’s family recipes. He vowed to make it affordable, and he did. Our kids’ favorite was Spotted Dick. They loved to order it and giggled when they did. I never touched it (it had raisins)
Cave Dunyasi – a Turkish coffee and chocolate spot right by Piccadilly Circus. You get a chocolate teaspoon to mix your hot beverage. Delicious!
Please share your own finds with me. I’m always on the lookout.