It’s hard to grasp how huge India is. It’s a gigantic country comprised of many individual ethnicities and cultures. The diversity within the country is wide and deep, with myriads of languages, religious beliefs, foods, and history. So are the country’s rich history and traditions, from ancient churches carved into stone in remote caves to colorful and intricate temples, both old and contemporary
The India I see is a colorful and creative place. My intent is not to minimize or ignore the human misery that exists there, the caste system, or other social issues. As a tourist who admittedly has never been to Kolkata, I am in awe of this country with all its warts. Everywhere you go, color hits you. In the women’s gorgeous saris, even as they launder them in a nearby river or wear them as they toil the fields in the scorching sun; in the thousands of temples that are ever present; even in the cities themselves (the gold city; the blue city; etc.).
The industry and creativity of the people who live here, regardless to wealth and origin, is also striking. From the barber who cuts hair on the sidewalk and the iron man who goes door to door with a coal iron in hand (to avoid the need for electricity) ironing people’s laundry to the fabulous wealth of the Tatas, whose billion-dollar abode towers over Mumbai. What an incredible country!
I was reluctant to visit India at first. The look in the eyes of hungry children stays with me forever. So we elected to try India in a non-real way, going on a fancy train in Rajasthan for a week. I wouldn’t say I liked the train but fell in love with India. We’ve been back numerous times since that trip and have an idea of the various regions. But I know we will never truly experience this country as we travel.
India can be intimidating to the first-time visitor. Here are some thoughts for you.
1. The most tourist-welcoming part of India is Rajasthan. It’s riddled with ancient forts, gorgeous buildings and temples, hotels suited to any budget and rich traditions. It might be your ideal place to visit India for the first time.
2. India’s large cities are intimidating and difficult to navigate. Traffic is an unimaginable permanent snarl. They’re certainly worth visiting, but I wouldn’t go there without a guide, especially not for the first time.
3. Most of the people we met were very friendly and engaging despite the lack of a common language. This is even more true as you leave the major tourist areas, such as art the markets that are present in every city and town.
4. If you’re averse to dirt dong go. It’s everywhere. It’s part of the fabric of the country. And, what’s refuse to you is a tasty morsel for a cow. Those cows roam the streets and enjoy the trash every food market produces.
5. Get a guide. Be specific as to how you enjoy touring. Do you like a lot of detail? Do you need an explanation for every dagger in the local museum? Do you walk fast or slow? Are uou strong-willed enough to require a listening and flexible guide or do you prefer to put yourself in their hands? These questions are always important, especially in a country where nearly everything is unlike anything we’re used to.
6. The South. We love Kerala and The Back Waters of India. It’s a world onto itself. Especially the back waters, where people live on and in the river even if they have running water in their nice house. Some villages are especially remote and can only be accessed by the rice boats that litter the river. It’s impossible to describe the place. You need to experience it.
7. Veranasi. This is the city on the Ganges where bodies have been cremated continuously for two millennia. It takes a strong stomach to witness the burial customs of the Hindu. It’s also fascinating and unworldly.
8. Food. There is only one rule – mild in Hindi is spicy in English. The food is fantastic. You can feast on vegetables you’ve never seen. The flavors are sublime. The ingredients are outstanding. But it will be spicy (hot) even in Western hotels. I love Indian food. I can’t eat anything spicy because it burns my tongue. It takes a LOT to communicate that.
9. Treat yourself to one of the Taj hotel group palaces. The luxury is unimaginable. One night at those expensive hotels will stay with you forever and redefine luxury for you. There are a dozen or so palaces. My favorites – Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad; Lake Palace in Udaipur; Taj Bahwan Palace in Jodhpur.
10. Drive, don’t fly. India has thousands of flights connecting the country. They rarely leave on time, airport entrance is often difficult, and, once delayed. You’re out of options. Alternatively, the roads are awful. I intentionally do not mention trains. So… private chauffeur transportation might be your best option, especially in Rajasthan. We even drove from there to the Taj Mahal (yes, it is a wonder) and then to Delhi to catch the international flight back.
Apropos international flights, they typically arrive too late to catch a connection to wherever you’re going. The Hyatt in the Mumbai airport is an excellent choice for a quick overnight stay and a fully westernized Indian buffet.
If you’re an adventurous traveler, go to India. Arm yourself with unlimited patience and load your iPad with your favorite shows. It’s a tough country to visit but there’s nothing like it in the world.